Kontrasto, the previous occupant of the ground-floor space at Chinachem Hollywood Centre, closed after less than a year. This set expectations low for Yuan, which has taken its place, but the concept – Hong Kong's first modern fine-dining Chinese vegetarian restaurant – has seized the imagination and delivered food and service of a high calibre. Diners can choose from a three-, five- or 12-course tasting menu (a 12-course vegan menu is also available]. Unmissable dishes range from starters such as the matsutake and chrysanthemum tofu soup, to mains like daikon and peach gum with mixed bean puree and beetroot, and the "staple food" (carb) course of mock abalone, carrot and cucumber with cold inaniwa noodles. The flavours consistently pop, with contrasting textures keeping things interesting.

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