Kappou cuisine sits at the intersection of high-end kaiseki dining and casual izakaya eats. Meals are still high quality, multi-course and at the chef's discretion, but the feeling is less stuffy – and so it is at Ryota Kappou Modern. Chef Ryota Kanesawa, who gained experience as a sous chef at two-Michelin-starred Tenku Ryugin, leads here. His expert marrying of Japanese ingredients with European techniques has produced consistently stunning results. Guests select from a tasting menu or the (more luxe) premium menu. Past highlights have included the unusual monkfish karaage, and grilled Challans duck with kumquat and wasabi sauce.

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