Chefs mixing innovation and tradition are not rare at the high end of Hong Kong's dining scene. The best restaurants that claim to do this need something else to set them apart. At Racines, the emphasis is on the heart with which each meal is prepared – and the convivial surroundings of the small space on Upper Station Street where it is served. It may sound corny on paper, but you can genuinely feel it when you visit. Chefs Romain Dupeyre and Adrien Castillo have achieved their aim of presenting guests with their shared roots in southern France (Dupeyre is from Nice, Castillo from Toulouse). The menu varies depending on the season but you can order almost anything and expect a charming meal.

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