In Japan, the word "shun" describes local, seasonal food at the fullness of its flavour and freshness – that all-too-brief peak of perfection. Founder, head chef and Kyoto native Teruhiko Nagamoto puts "shun" at the heart of everything he does at his eponymous restaurant in Central. The star of the show here is a 10-course menu that changes from month to month, ensuring that each meal is of the utmost freshness and flavour. Over winter, one winning course comprised shrimp taro alongside dried mullet roe and dried persimmon with cheese. Warming dishes included deep-fried green laver with sea urchin, and an unsurpassed Wagyu beef shabu-shabu.

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