Inspired by the concrete wave breakers that dot sections of the Hong Kong shoreline, Dolos represents "the connection between the land and sea in this maritime city. Inspiration aside, the concept is similar to sister restaurant Vivant, with its cosy setting – there are just 20 seats and "casual gastronomy" approach. Chef Sean Yuen, working wonders here, having pivoted from life in a band to life in a kitchen, makes changes to the menu on a monthly basis. Dining is limited to an evening chef's menu that uses the best of the day's catch alongside fresh ingredients from the land. There's a strong Japanese accent to the cooking but menus are varied. Recent highlights included grilled eel with shiokara and tomato Parmigiano Reggiano, three-yellow chicken with a clam and leek sauce, and Wagyu beef tongue with coffee and strawberry.

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