Purists might wonder why Azure 80 doesn't pick a lane and be either a Sichuan or a Shanghai restaurant – but why bother when the results are this good? The two cuisines might seem wildly different, but the menu has been forged by a pair of experts – chef Kenny Chan Kai-tak and the Taste Gourmet group's executive chef, Andy Lau – whose varied experience and expertise pull it all together. Winners not to miss include the spicy smoked eel that sees the fish stuffed inside pork intestines, sliced into roundels and then deep fried, and the lighter, sweeter, steamed yellow croaker served with somen noodles in a home-made Shanghainese sauce of Huadiao rice wine and crystallised rock sugar.

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