Already an iconic restaurant in its original incarnation, Amber was redefined in 2019 when culinary director Richard Ekkebus chose to ditch gluten and dairy from dishes and reduce the amount of salt and sugar too. Despite these apparent handicaps the food remains exquisite, Ekkebus having found remarkable workarounds to enhance flavours. Think: blue lobster with fermented uni miso, red sea urchin, vin jaune, bottarga , heirloom carrot and kumquat; and duck au sang accompanied by maqaw mountain pepper, butternut squash, pumpkin seed praline, kinome and extra virgin pumpkin seed oil – these are the kind of mains that will have you instantly planning your next visit.

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