Much has changed over Vea’s first decade – most notably, the bar is no more, allowing room for Wing to take flight – but executive chef Vicky Cheng’s adherence to his signature “Chinese x French” approach remains. The counter seating is divisive, but a small number of tables are available if you can get one. Wherever you land, the kitchen rarely misses. Alongside the traditional eight-course tasting menu, there’s now a streamlined six-course option too. Both embody Cheng’s philosophy – Kristal caviar paired with smoked coconut and water bamboo, or 28-head dried abalone with pithivier and sweetbread. Vegetarian menus can be ordered in advance, and although the bar is gone the pairing options are well worthwhile.

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