Most fine dining Japanese restaurants in Hong Kong strive for authenticity, faithfully replicating the quintessential Tokyo or Kyoto experience. Thomas & T’s takes a refreshingly bold approach, blending Japanese and French techniques in a way that feels more exciting. Founder and executive chef Thomas Tam’s stints at Restaurant Petrus and Sushiyoshi prove the ideal foundation for this concept (road-tested at Decree by T, his previous restaurant in the same spot). The menu is filled with inventive dishes, and the hits far outweigh the misses. The swordfish char siu rice is a stand-out, marrying the smoky sweetness of char siu with the buttery, melt-in-the-mouth finish of premium fish. Equally imaginative is the tuna duo sushi, a twist on the traditional toro sushi. Here, a slice of aged fatty tuna is paired with lean, air-dried, dehydrated tuna to deliver a bite that balances creamy richness with deep umami. It’s a mouthful that most wouldn’t dare to dream up, let alone serve.

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