A visit to Sushi Saito comes with considerable expectations. This is, after all, the Hong Kong outpost of revered master Takashi Saito, whose Tokyo flagship was once called “the best sushi restaurant in the world” by Joël Robuchon. Saito himself may not be behind the counter – so new executive chef Nawata Ryosuke must carry the burden of expectations – but the master’s presence remains deeply felt. Saito still personally selects the freshest seafood each morning at Tokyo’s Toyosu Market, shipping it to Hong Kong for same-day service. From there, his protégés take over, transforming the catch into something worthy of their teacher.

‍