Tucked away on Pedder Street, Sushi Koh is an intimate 12-seat omakase counter that has quietly earned a reputation for its thoughtful, no-nonsense edomae approach. Despite the unassuming exterior, few Hong Kong sushi restaurants place the chef centre stage quite like Sushi Koh, with executive chef Hirokuni Shiga and his team assembling that evening’s menu surrounded by a semicircle of guests, as if dinner were theatre and the kitchen a thrust stage. Hirokuni, aka Hiro-san, is an industry veteran. He has been involved in restaurants from Tokyo to Sendai, and apprenticed under celebrated chef Kenji Oana. He keeps the menu simple, focused on seasonal appetisers, nigirizushi, tamago, soup and dessert. Fish is sourced predominantly from Toyosu market in Tokyo, with occasional local catches appearing when quality permits. Past highlights have included silky aori ika, chutoro that melts on the tongue, and a remarkably clean kuruma ebi.

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