Although from Akita prefecture in Japan’s northern Tohoku region, chef Kazuyuki Itagaki has chosen to specialise in the meatier Kansai-style sukiyaki, rather than the more balanced and geographically closer Tokyo style. Naturally, selecting the right beef is central to the entire operation. Chef Itagaki employs the limited and prized Matsusaka beef, alongside Oita Wagyu from Kyushu, and Jinnai Wagyu Aka – a lean red Wagyu from Hokkaido. The meat is served with two egg dips featuring Kosawari Tamago from Hyogo prefecture: one highlights the rich decadence of the yolk, the other the light, meringue-like consistency of the whisked egg white. The beef is complemented by appealing seasonal offerings throughout the year. Autumn and winter bring the likes of hairy crab chawanmushi, while summer features sea urchin, kanpachi and soft eggplant.

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