It is hugely impressive that since taking sole control of the kitchen here, Romain Dupeyre has maintained standards at one of Hong Kong’s best neighbourhood French restaurants. Dupeyre recently announced he would begin working on other projects, but in Leung Chun-wah, he has a capable new head chef. Current hits include Limousin veal with kaffir lime, cabbage and sweetbread, and Scottish razor clams and cockles served with bergamot, marinière and butternuts. Pigeon remains on the menu, currently originating from Plounéour-Ménez served with carrots and in an orange licorice sauce. Crucially, the atmosphere, which sets Racines apart from many restaurants of its ilk, remains in place. Staff are among the most engaging dinner partners in town and conversation with them at the counter (if you can book the seats) is always a pleasure.

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