Vicky Lau’s soy-concentrated project on Upper Lascar Row continues to defy expectations, earning accolades for both its cooking and its sustainability efforts. Former head chef Choi Ming-fai departed earlier this year, but his legacy lives on – the kitchen team, helmed by Kevin Chan Tak-chun, remain experts at translating soy into forms that regularly surprise even those who thought they knew the ingredient. The serene dining room, all natural tones and calm, keeps the focus on the plate. The pure tofu with soy tartlette is a beguiling combination of soft tofu with a white soy sauce jelly and a tartlette featuring soy mascarpone cauliflower cream and marinated yellowtail fish. Those craving animal proteins need not worry. Dishes like koji marinated suckling pig – a tofu skin-layered hunk of pork leg confit paired with a red miso and tofu sauce – hit the spot.

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