The partnership between Cantonese master Siu Hin-chi and young executive chef Oliver Li continues to evolve following last year’s triumph as 100 Top Tables’ “Best New Restaurant”. Li brings French techniques and training from his time at L’Envol and Feuille to the kitchen, while Siu provides the Cantonese foundation on which all else rests. Their collaboration results in dishes such as fried orzo with aged radishes and soft-shell turtle jelly with caviar. Not all dishes are such obvious fusions. Silky fowl chicken with Moutai, and bird’s nest with almond milk are more recognisably Cantonese – but no less intriguing thanks to Li’s modern touches. Although the wine list spans the globe, it is the Chinese wine selection – with superior options from Ningxia, Yunnan, Shandong and Xinjiang – that makes for the perfect pairing.

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