Quite possibly the best place on the Kowloon side of Victoria Harbour for sampling contemporary French fine dining. Chef de cuisine Aven Lau maintains his focus on precision cooking, seasonality and a subtle Asian-French dialogue. The Singapore-born chef repurposes classic French techniques with quiet innovation, so foie gras, smoked quail and slower-cooked bird dishes appear frequently reimagined across the seasonal tasting menus. Lau, who innovated the use of three-yellow chicken in fine dining in Hong Kong, switched focus this year and the spectacular result – his aged rice duck “à l’orange” – is sure to inspire a new slew of imitators.

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