Formerly California-inspired under chef Christopher Kostow, Ensue is now a progressive Chinese restaurant with a Cantonese foundation enhanced with contemporary twists. It highlights rare Guangdong fare in playful forms, helping to remove some of the pretension often associated with white-tablecloth fine dining. Executive chef and chef de cuisine Jeff Wu celebrates humble ingredients that showcase the region’s biodiversity, demonstrating that fine dining need not rely solely on luxurious components. Instead, through meticulously honed, labour-intensive techniques, he crafts inventive dishes such as blue lobster marinated with osmanthus cicada – an insect that emits a juicy, pear-like aroma – alongside a TCM-inspired Buddha’s hand chocolate, and a preserved radish puff shaped like a carrot that diners “harvest” from edible “soil”.

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