At Embla the cooking is strictly Nordic in orientation but relaxed in execution. The dining room is understated – warm wood and earthen tones contrasted with deep blues, a mix of counter and table seating – designed for evenings (or lunches, if you’re so lucky) that stretch. Dishes arrive without fanfare: gubbröra, a Swedish classic of smoked eel and pickled herring spooned onto crisp bread; hot North Atlantic cod with a Sandefjord sauce; or baked quail with jûs gras and almond foam. The wine list is full of pleasant surprises but never strains for attention. This is the kind of restaurant where the meal builds quietly, course by course, and you only realise how satisfying it was once it’s over.

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