Chef Olivier Elzer has retired his “yakifrenchy” label, but not the mission: French food that sits lighter on the palate and the stomach, without losing its soul. It is a fine line to walk but he treads it like a high-wire pro. Classic dishes like beef tartare and roasted yellow chicken lose nothing from his approach. The hot Camembert with toasted baguette and honey remains compulsory. As for the delectable croffle with salted caramel and Normandy milk ice cream – surely that explains all those “lighter” dishes that came before.

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