Hefty expectations accompany a visit to Sushi Saito. This is, after all, an establishment founded by the revered master Takashi Saito, whose flagship restaurant in Minato, Tokyo, was once dubbed “the best sushi restaurant in the world” by Joël Robuchon. Saito himself may not be behind the counter, which perhaps helps suppress expectations to a just-about-manageable level, but he still hand-picks the freshest seafood every morning at Tokyo’s Toyosu Market for delivery to Hong Kong the same day. It is then up to Saito’s protégés to transform the catch into something worthy of their teacher. The attention to detail – from how the sushi rice is pressed to the use of spring water from Kagoshima to cook it – is exceptional. Note that staff advise against wearing fragrances for fear of interfering with the experience.