Last year was one of significant change for Racines. Co-founder Adrien Castillo elected to return to France, leaving the restaurant’s other chef/co-founder, Romain Dupeyre, to gather the reins all by himself. If there were worries that Racines might flounder without one of its guiding lights, the concerns have proved unfounded. The food remains as good as before, whether it’s the roast Brittany pigeon with fig and lavender (well worth paying extra for) or something like the Spanish carabineros cooked over binchotan charcoal. Crucially, the engaging atmosphere, which sets Racines apart from many restaurants of its ilk, remains in place. Dupeyre and his staff are among the most engaging dinner partners in town and conversation with them at the counter (if you can book the seats) is always a pleasure.