It has taken five years but Henry is finally delivering on its promise after a long time being less than the sum of its parts. The change is down to new chef Jorge Vera Gutierrez, who has made Henry a better steakhouse by making it less of a steakhouse. Gutierrez’s move from Bayfare Social initially seemed an odd fit but his experience at the neighbouring tapas restaurant – working beyond steak and having to deliver quality seafood, charcuterie, pasta and more than a dozen different tapas – has enabled him to elevate the wider experience here. Not for nothing has the fried chicken suddenly become a must-order. There are still fancy steaks aplenty, and they remain perfectly cooked, but Henry is more comfortable offering everything else now and is all the better for it.